Method of laying out patterns.



V. BVANGELISTA.

METHOD 0F LAYING oUT PATTERNS.

APPLIUATION FILED APR.4,1908.

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III STATES PATENT OFFICE.

VINCENZO EVANGELISTA, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

METHOD OF LAYING OUT PATTERNS.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, VINCENZO EVANGEL- is'ra, a subject of the King of Italy, residing at Philadelphia, in the county of Philadelphia and State ol Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and usel'ul Improvements in Methods of Laying Out Patterns, of which the 'following is a specification.

My invention relates to systems of plotting out patterns, laying olf the lines on which the cloth oi a garment is to be cut, and locating points which said lines shall intersect, and it consists in the method of' finding and plotting these points and lines which is herea'lter described and specifically stated in the claim appended, the object ol" my inventionbeing to provide a system of plotting the measurements taken by tailors or dress-makers which is simpler, more accurate and easier el application than any heretofore known to me.

A l'urther object is to provide a method 'which allows the exact amount of suppression at the proper points to be easily ascertained and allowed for in the cutting of the garment.

In the accompanying drawing I have shown a diagram pattern ot one side of a mans coat.

In carrying out my method, I lirst take measurements `from the body of the person lor whom the garment .is intended, and these measurements Vform the factors on which the subsequent plotting o'llv the pattern is based. These measurements are: the determined length ot the coat or other article, length Vfrom neck band to a point beneath the armpit, length from neck band to waist, length Vfrom neck band to hips. These are the vertical measurements. The horizontal measurements are: around the body under arm (breast measure), around the waist and around the hips.

In addition to the measurements above given, I accurately measure what I term back suppression, which consists in taking a measurement oit the body from the liront line at the lower edge of the seye to a point in the middle of the back at the waist, and by putting this measurement on the pattern hereinalter described, an accurate measurement can be had of the amount of material that must be taken in to make the garment exactly 'lit the wearer.

Referring new to the drawing, the ilirst line drawn l'or the beginning ol the pattern is the base line extended vertically at the ex- Specicaton of Letters Patent.

Application led April 4, 1908.

Patented July 13, 1909.

Serial No. 425,101.

treme right, from the point 1 to the point 8, said line being lettered A. This is in length equal to the determined length ol the coat from the neck band to the edge ol the skirt and may be called the back seam line. Taking the distance between the neck band and the armpit and applying it to the line A from the point 1, I locate the point 5 and at this point draw the line E at right angles to the line A. This line will touch the lowest. part el the curve ol the armhole at 1S as will be later seen. This distance is usually termed the depth of sc ye. Taking the measurement from the neck line, the point 1 down to the natural waist ol the person fitted and applying this measurement to the line A from the point l, I locate the point 6 from which a line is drawn at right angles to the base line A. This may be termed the natural waist line and is lettered F. Taking the measurement from the neck band to the hip, I apply it to the line A from the point l getting the point 7 and as belore I draw a line G at right angles to the line A. This is termed the hip line. A line B is now drawn lrom the point l at right angles to the line A and taking one-half the width ol' the back, I apply it to the top line B from the point 1 and get the point 11, lrom which I draw the downwardly extending line C which marks approximately the line of junction between the side and back ol the coat. Starting again from the point 1,I lay out a distance on line I3 equal to onelourth ol the breast measure (one-lburth of the measure entirely around the body) and thereby locate the point 12 and lay out a distance on line B from the point 12, equal to one-third of the breast measure locating the point 2. I then lay out on line B a distance from the point 12 equal to one-third ol the breast measure which locates the point 13. From the point 13 a line D is extended downward at right angles to the line B until it intersects the line E primarily drawn as de-.

scribed from the point 5. At the` intersection ol the lines D and E a point 1G is located. At one-'lifth ol the distance from the point 16 to point 5, on the line E, I locate the point 17.

At the intersection of line O with line E, I mark the point 35. I measure upward on line C from the point a distance equal to the distance lrom the point of shoulder to the armpit plus one inch which locates the point 2O on the line C. I now connect the point 2() with the point 16 by an imaginary line not plotted nor shown in the diagram, but merely temporarily made as by the edge of a ruler, and from the point 17 I erect a vertical c. At the intersection of the vertical e with the imaginary line connecting 20 to 16, I mark the point 36, which gives me the point of spring for the scye or semi-circular edge of the arnihole which is shown in dotted lines. From the point 16, I extend the line D upward above its intersection with the line B suliciently so that the total length of the line from 16 to 14 (14 being the extremity of the line D) shall be equal to the distance between the point 17 and the point 5. The line D from 14 to 16 I term the primary measure, or irst measure in terms oi which the distances now to be stated are calculated. Thus the distance from 13 to 13 (which indicates the upper end ot' the shoulder seam) on line D, is one-sixteenth of the primary measure 14-16, and the distance from the point 2 on line B to the point 3 vertically above the point 2 is the same. From the point 1, I draw a line to the point 3 and from the point 3 to the point 20. r1`his indicates the shoulder seam. Line b is extended beyond the point 2O a distance equal to the distance from 2 to 3, to mark the extremity of shoulder seam.

From the point 35 previously located I measure upward on line C a distance equal to the radius ol the curve of the armhole or scye and locate point 34, and from the point 2O I measure downward a distance equal to the radius of said curve and locate the point 33 which indicates the point from which the armhole is to be cut. In order to get the front line of the shoulder seam I draw an imaginary line from 13 to 20 and starting from the point 13 I measure off on this imaginary line a distance equal to the distance from 3 to 2G. This line I have lettered t, this locates the point 19, which is connected to the point 36 by the dotted line 71, point 36 being found by erecting a vertical from 17. From the point 5 I measure on line E a dise tance equal to one-halt of the full around the body breast measure and so locate the point 21, and from the point 21 I continue the line E a distance equal to one-fourth ot the total back suppression and locate the point 22.

As above explained I take a measurement of the customers body, from the iront at the lower line of the scye corresponding` to the point 17 on the pattern and measure from this point to the center of the back at the waist. The point of the waist at the middle of the back, after the back suppression has been compensated Vfor in the pattern is indicated by the point 9. I take a straight edge with this measurement on it and place one end of the edge on the point 17 o1: the pattern, and then manipulate the straight edge until the other end of the dimension comes upon line F, and thus locate the point 10, and the distance from this point 10 to the point 6 on line A, which corresponds to the center of the back is the actual amount of suppression, which must be had in one-half of the garment, and in the description following in which I refer to fractions ot the back suppression, it is to be understood that these measurements apply to one-half of the pattern. Gn line D I measure from point 13 a distance downward on the line D equal to one-fourth of the line and locate the point 15, and from this point I draw a line at right angles to the line D as indicated at d. From the point 21 I draw a line upward at right angles to line E until it intersects with a line (l extending at right angles to D from point 15, which is directly opposite point 19. A line also is extended upward from point 22 to the intersection of d with the line from 21, thus giving a line H which, continued downward forms the front edge of the coat. In order to locate the point 5, a distance equal to onehalf of the full breast measure is taken 'from a point 22 on line E. The distance between the points 5 and 5 is equal to one-quarter of the total suppression necessary to form the inward curve ot the back. In order now to give a guide point for the curve of the neck band (shown by dotted line 7L) I measure out from the point 15 a distance equal to one-eighth of the primary measurement, line D and mark the point 37 halt-way between lines D and d. The points 13 and 15 are now connected by an inwardly curved line. The degree of curvature of this line is a matter of judgment or taste. I have now plotted and laid down guide lines for the uper portion of the coat including the armn holes, shoulders, neck band and breast, and laid down approximately lines for the back, Afront and seam between the front and back. The marks and lines indicating the full back suppression and skirt iare must now be plotted.

Measuring inward on line F from point 27 located at the intersection of line F with line H, a distance equal to one-half of the full waist measure I locate the point 9. The distance from this point 9 to the line 6 is onequarter of the total back suppression. N ow from the point 6 on line A, I measure inward a distance equal to four times the distance between 6 and 9 which gives the point 10, 10 to 6 equaling the total back suppression. The point 20 is new to be connected to the line A by a line a at right angles to line A which gives a line on the back from the point of one shoulder to the point of the other. At its intersection with line A, I mark the point 4 and then connect the point 4 with the point 9 by a line I. This point 9 is connected to the point 8 (the lowest extremity of line A) by a line I. The lines I, I give the line of the middle seam of the back. In

order new to locate the side seam et the back, I locate the peint 23. This point is found by measuring from the point 10 on line F a distance equal to twice the distance between 9 and 10. This point 23 so found indicates the side edge of the back. From the point 23 a distance is measured on line F equal to one-half of the total suppression (or distance between l() and 6), and the point 21t located. This indicates the rear edge of the side at the waist line as shown by the dotted lines. I now measure from the point 24 a distance equal to the full suppression (points 10 te Gl and locate the point 25, and from point 25 I measure a distance equal to one-quarter ot the suppression and locate the point 26. From the point 1S previously found and which marks the lowest point of the armhole, I now draw a line downward which intersects the line F lialt-way between 25 and 26 and which extends downward to the hip line G. This line K indicates approximatelyr the line of the side seam, the edges of the cloth however being cut away on either side of the line K to the point 25, 26. This gives the suppression around the waist.

Ii designates a line drawn at right angles to line F from the point 27 which locates a point 2S on line G. 'Ieasuring from this point 2S along line G a distance equal to the full hip measure gives the point 3() at the intersection of line I. Drawing now the dotted line from point 23 on line F to the intersection of line M with line C, the point 31 is located at the intersection of said dotted line with line G. Taking one-fourth of the suppression7 and `applying it from point 31 gives the point 29 which marks the intersection of a diagonal line extending downward from the point 24 on the waist line F. This diagonal dotted linef is extended downward until it intersects with the line M marking the extreme bottom of the coat. A marks the rear edge of the side of the coat and gives approximately the outline of the back. In order to give a proper drop to the front edge of the coat the line II is extended below line M a distance equal to one-fourth of the back suppression and then connected to the point of intersection of line C with M by a line m which gives the lower edge of the coat.

It will be seen from the description above given that a general feature of my system of garment plotting consists in forming a rectangular ligure or a series ot connected rectangular' 'ligures, one tor each breadth ot' This line 7" the garment, dividing said rectangles by transverse lines whose .intervals correspond to the lines defining the `general divisions of the human lorm, and then laying down points upon such lines at distances correspending lo certain dc'linite fractions ot the general lines and the distances between them. It will also be seen that by so subdividing the rectangular ligures into smaller' spaces by transverse lines, it is comparatively easy to locate the points on which the lines de'ning the linal cutting lines are to intersect. All the lines needed te accurately define the outline ot a garment are provided by my system. It is not merely thc general outlines which are laid down and which later have to be iilled in by guess work, but when my diagram is ilnally completed there is nothing lacking. It is also to be noted that by providing a specimen diagram such as the diagrams shown in the drawing and providing data indicating what measurements arc to be applied between the points and lines and how the points are to be located, that a complete scheme ol garment cutting is provided whereby any one having the sample diagram can take their own measurements and applying the rules laid down in this specification or the data based on these rules can plot out a complete pattern ler a garment without recourse to scales on the one hand, or guess work on the other.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is The herein described method tor obtaining` patterns tor coats consisting in iirst measuring the body ol the customer to determine the length. ol coat, length from neckband to peint beneath the armpit, length trom neckband to waist, length troni necliband to hips, breast measure which is around the breastl under the arm, waist measure, hip measure and a measure lor back suppression which is taken from the front point ot the scye at the lower edge ther-eel to the middle ot the back at the waist, then laying out these several mcasurements on a pattern and marking on the pattern the exact amount ol back suppression substantially as and tor the purpose set torth.

In testimony whereof I have signed my naine to this specification in the presence ol two subscribing witnesses.

VINCENZO EVANGELISTA.

Vitnesses R. Il. KREUKEL, REO P. Winenr. 

